Madeira: PR 18 – Levada do Rei Hike Transfer

A beautiful walk, with the driving sorted.

The PR18 Levada do Rei hike gives you a fine taste of northern Madeira without the hassle of renting a car or arranging a return ride. I especially like the lush Laurissilva forest and the simple door-to-trail transport from Funchal, Caniço, or Garajau. The main thing to consider is that this is a self-guided hike, so you need to manage your own pace, food, safety, and return time.

The route is about 11 kilometers round trip and takes roughly four hours on foot. The full outing lasts around six hours, though the drive from Funchal can take a little over an hour each way. That leaves less spare time than some walkers may expect, especially if you stop often for photos or want a relaxed break at the café near the end.

Key points at a glance

• Ribeiro Bonito is the reward: The trail ends at an isolated sanctuary wrapped in thick Laurissilva forest and fed by Madeira’s abundant water.
• The walk is mostly manageable: At around 11 kilometers, PR18 is rated moderate, with some narrow or slippery sections and several vegetation-formed tunnels.
• A local driver handles the awkward part: Pickup, the mountain transfer, and the return to your original area are included.
• Joao has timed departures well: One outing was arranged to reach the waterfalls before the busiest period, making photo stops more enjoyable.
• Bring a head torch: The vegetation creates dark passages, and relying only on a phone light is not ideal.
• The schedule matters: You must return at the time set by the driver because the van serves several pickup locations.

Why PR18 is worth your hiking day

Madeira’s levadas are irrigation channels built to carry water across the island. The paths beside them turn practical engineering into some of the island’s best walking routes. Levada do Rei is especially appealing because water, forest, farmland, and mountain scenery appear in a steady sequence rather than all at once.

The walk begins near the Water Treatment Plant of Quebradas in São Jorge. That name sounds less romantic than the actual setting, but it marks the start of a trail that quickly leaves ordinary roads behind. You first pass through an exotic forest area with views of the agricultural surroundings of São Jorge and Santana.

This opening section helps you understand Madeira’s northern side. The slopes are not just wild woodland. They are shaped by small farms and traditional cultivation, with forest taking over wherever the land becomes steeper or wetter.

As you continue, the levada becomes your constant companion. The route follows the channel through thick plant growth, where branches and leaves can arch over the path and create natural green corridors. These passages are one of the walk’s most memorable features, but they can also block light and leave the ground damp.

The high point is Ribeiro Bonito, a quiet natural area covered by dense Laurissilva forest. This native woodland is one of Madeira’s signature natural features, and the abundant water along this route helps explain why the vegetation is so thick. Waterfalls and wet rock add to the sense that you have reached a secluded corner of the island.

From São Jorge farms to the first forest tunnels

The morning pickup takes place at designated points in Funchal, Caniço, or Garajau. The exact time is confirmed the day before or on the morning of departure, so do not plan a tight appointment immediately before or after the outing.

At hotel pickup points, you should wait outside the reception area and make yourself easy to spot. The driver tries to park where the van is visible, but mountain roads and hotel access can make a precise curbside stop difficult. A bright jacket or clear position near the stated pickup point can save confusion.

The drive to São Jorge is part of the day, not just dead time. One account puts the trip from Funchal at a little over an hour, with Fabio receiving particular praise for careful driving and a pleasant journey. The route takes you away from the capital and toward the greener north side of Madeira.

Once you arrive, the driver explains the trail and the transport plan. Since there is no hiking guide walking with you, listen carefully at this point. You need to understand where the route starts, how long you have, and where the van will meet you afterward.

The first part of the trail feels open compared with the forest farther ahead. You can look across agricultural areas and see how the rural surroundings fit into the mountains. This is a useful contrast: PR18 is not a walk through untouched wilderness from the first step. It begins in a lived-in part of Madeira and gradually becomes more enclosed.

Walking beside the levada for about 11 kilometers

The round trip covers approximately 11 kilometers, with about four hours allowed for walking and stops. The path is considered moderate. Several people have found it mostly flat and manageable, but that does not mean it is a paved stroll.

The surface can become slippery after rain. Proper hiking shoes are a smart choice, not just comfortable trainers. You should also take a jacket and rain gear because Madeira’s weather can change quickly, particularly in damp forest areas.

The levada itself keeps the route easy to follow. You walk beside the water channel, with the forest often rising close on the other side. At times, the greenery forms tunnel-like sections overhead. These are attractive for photographs, but they can make the path feel darker and wetter.

A head torch is recommended for the tunnels and shaded passages. You may manage with a phone light, but a small torch leaves both hands free and gives you better footing. It also makes the darker stretches less awkward if clouds or rain reduce the daylight.

Some walkers will find the route comfortable because it is largely level. Anyone with vertigo should think carefully before booking, however. The activity is not suitable for people with vertigo, and you should not assume that a generally flat levada path will feel comfortable at every point.

The walk rewards patience. The best views are not always the grandest ones. Watch the channel, the mossy surfaces, the changing plant cover, and the way water appears in small falls and wet rock. If you rush to finish, you may miss the small details that make this route different from a standard mountain path.

Ribeiro Bonito, the green finish

Ribeiro Bonito is the natural climax of PR18. After the more open farmland near São Jorge and the enclosed sections along the levada, you reach a secluded area covered by the thick vegetation typical of Madeira’s Laurissilva forest.

This is where the route feels most removed from everyday Madeira. Water is the key. The area’s abundant flow supports dense plant growth, and the forest closes around the path in a way that feels noticeably wilder than the opening section.

Waterfalls are another strong point. The exact amount of water depends on recent weather, but the trail’s wet conditions and reviews of the route make it clear that you should expect damp ground and water-related scenery. One outing was timed so the group reached waterfall viewpoints before crowds gathered, which made photography easier.

There is also a café near the end of the route. It can be a welcome stop, but you should not rely on it as your only food plan. Meals and drinks are not included, and the instructions specifically tell you to bring your own snacks and water.

The return walk follows the same general route back. That has two effects. You get a second chance to notice details you missed on the way in, but the scenery is not completely new. If you prefer a route that forms a loop with different views throughout, this hike may feel repetitive on the way back.

How the transport service works

The main benefit of this experience is practical. You do not have to find the trailhead in São Jorge, deal with unfamiliar mountain roads, or work out how to return after a one-way walk. A van collects you, takes you to the start, and brings you back to your original pickup area.

The driver speaks English and Portuguese. The driver also knows the area and gives the information needed for a safe self-guided walk. Joao has been praised for managing the timing well, while Fabio received specific praise for careful driving and a friendly road trip.

This is transport with local orientation, not a guided nature tour. The driver does not walk the route with you, interpret every plant, or control the pace. That freedom suits independent walkers who like to stop for photographs and choose their own rhythm.

It also puts more responsibility on you. Keep your phone charged, carry water, note the meeting point, and respect the return time. If you finish early, contact the driver rather than assuming the van will be waiting immediately. One group was collected earlier because everyone completed the hike ahead of schedule, but this depends on coordination.

The provider warns that return times may shift slightly because the van may serve people staying in different areas. You should allow flexibility at the end of the day.

Is $45 a fair price?

At $45 per person, the price is reasonable if you are staying in Funchal or one of the listed pickup areas and do not have a rental car. The fare covers the two-way van journey, pickup and drop-off, and basic trail information from a local driver.

You are not paying for a guided hike, lunch, hiking equipment, or drinks. Those omissions matter. Add snacks, water, suitable shoes, rain gear, and possibly the government trail entrance charge of €3. The €3 fee can be paid by card or cash at the location, or purchased beforehand.

For an independent hiker with a car, the value is less clear because the main service is transport. For someone who wants a straightforward day in the north without driving, the price buys convenience and reduces the risk of getting lost on the approach roads.

The rating of 4.7 from 44 reviews supports the idea that the operation is generally reliable. The most praised points are prompt pickup, careful driving, clear information, good timing, and the beauty of the forest route. The main criticism is time. One person wanted more of it, and that is fair: six hours sounds generous until you include the drive, a four-hour walk, rests, and coordination with other passengers.

What to bring for a safer, better walk

Pack lightly, but do not treat this as a casual city outing. I would bring:

• Hiking shoes with a good grip
• A waterproof jacket or rain gear
• Water and filling snacks
• A head torch for dark tunnel sections
• A charged phone
• A camera
• A light extra layer

Smoking is not allowed. Children under 12, or children shorter than 1.35 meters, cannot join. The activity is also not suitable for wheelchair users because of the trail surface and route conditions.

The most important item is footwear. Slippery ground is the recurring practical warning, especially after rain. Good shoes will not remove every difficulty, but they can make wet roots, damp stone, and muddy stretches much easier to handle.

Do not pack as if the café is guaranteed to solve lunch. It is a pleasant bonus near the end, but your own food and drink are specifically required.

Who will enjoy this experience most?

I would recommend PR18 to you if you want Madeira’s forest scenery but prefer an organized ride to the trailhead. It suits independent walkers who can follow a marked route, judge their own pace, and return on time without a guide beside them.

It is also a good choice if you want a moderate walk rather than a highly strenuous mountain trek. The route is mostly flat in places, but its length, wet surfaces, tunnels, and occasional exposure still demand care.

Photographers should like the mix of subjects: agricultural views near the start, thick plant tunnels, levada water, waterfalls, and the dark green setting at Ribeiro Bonito. Good timing may help you reach the most popular photo areas before they become crowded.

I would be cautious if you dislike narrow paths, have vertigo, or want constant interpretation from a hiking guide. This is not a lecture-led excursion. It is a transport service built around a self-guided walk.

You should also reconsider it if you need a highly flexible schedule. The driver has to coordinate several people and can leave if you miss the agreed departure time. That rule may sound strict, but it is what keeps a shared transfer moving.

Booking, cancellation, and timing advice

Pickup is included from designated areas in Funchal, Caniço, and Garajau. The precise pickup time is confirmed shortly before departure, so keep your morning open and check your messages.

You can cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund, and reserve now while paying later. Those terms are useful if Madeira’s weather or your plans remain uncertain, but they do not remove the need to prepare properly for the walk.

The full duration is listed as six hours. The walk itself takes around four hours, with the remaining time used for transport, breaks, and coordination. Since the drive from Funchal may take more than an hour each way, this is a full morning and afternoon commitment.

Should you book the PR18 Levada do Rei transfer?

Book it if you want a beautiful northern Madeira walk and value simple transport more than a fully guided experience. The Laurissilva forest, waterfall sections, agricultural views, and Ribeiro Bonito finish give the route plenty of variety.

The best reasons to choose it are the reliable pickup service, careful local drivers such as Joao and Fabio, and the freedom to walk at your own pace. The main cautions are the slippery footing, moderate distance, fixed return time, and lack of a guide on the trail.

Bring proper shoes, food, water, rain gear, and a head torch. If you can handle those basics and keep an eye on the clock, this is a well-priced way to reach one of Madeira’s most rewarding levada walks without taking on the mountain roads yourself.

FAQ

How long does the PR18 Levada do Rei experience last?

The full activity lasts about six hours, including transportation, rest time, and coordination with other routes. The walk itself takes approximately four hours.

How long is the hike?

The PR18 route is approximately 11 kilometers round trip.

Is the hike guided?

No. The walk is self-guided. The local driver provides information for a safe and enjoyable hike, but does not accompany you along the trail.

Where can pickup and drop-off take place?

Pickup and return service is available from designated areas in Funchal, Caniço, and Garajau.

What languages does the driver speak?

The driver speaks English and Portuguese.

Is food included?

No. Meals and drinks are not included. You should bring your own food, snacks, and water.

Do I need hiking shoes?

Hiking shoes or other comfortable shoes with good grip are recommended because parts of the trail may be slippery, especially after rain.

Are children allowed to join?

Children under 12 years old, or children shorter than 1.35 meters, are not allowed to participate.

Is there an entrance fee for the trail?

The government may charge €3 to enter specific hikes. You can pay by card or cash at the location, or purchase the access in advance.